by Roc et Glace escalade | Jul 3, 2022 | Climbing
Ice climbing grading | WI (Water Ice) system Ice climbing grades take into account several factors such as steepness, height of the section, configuration of the ice (curtain, cigar, free-standing, dagger or runnel/goulotte) and how technical the ice might be: fin,...
by Roc et Glace escalade | May 9, 2021 | Climbing
Vidéo produced by PETZL, December 2013 The REVERSO is a belay/rappel device that uses a standardized series of movements associated with most tube-type belay devices. This video therefore shows a belay technique common to all Petzl devices of this kind (VERSO,...
by Roc et Glace escalade | Aug 23, 2019 | Climbing, Uncategorized
During many of the courses given by Roc et Glace this one comes up quite often by those who wish to start practicing on their own after a course or initiation outing. Below is a quick list of items and price range for each to outfit yourself with a basic top rope kit...
by Roc et Glace escalade | Sep 27, 2018 | Climbing, Climbing, Uncategorized
Shoud you change the way you belay? This tutorial presents a study carried out by the ENSA mountain equipment testing facility on belay anchors and belaying techniques. The results of this study suggest the use of certain anchor-building and belaying techniques, which...
by Roc et Glace escalade | Sep 24, 2018 | Climbing, Uncategorized
Video produced by DMM «Slings at anchor» This video is a complement to a first video that was produced in 2010 «How to break Nylon and Dyneema slings». DMM analyses the subject and give more perspectives and precisions. A post, table and illustration accompany that...
by Roc et Glace escalade | Jul 25, 2018 | Ice climbing
Produced by Petzl 2012 Ice screws maintenance by PETZL. It is interesting to view the other post on the subject by Black Diamond. They are very look-alike but with slight differences that worth the viewing of both...
by Roc et Glace escalade | Jun 12, 2018 | Climbing
Produced by DMM | June 2010 Nylon (polyamide) and Dyneema®/Spectra® (polyethylene) are two synthetic raw materials with distinct strengths and weaknesses used in the manufacture of slings and quickdraws. Understanding the properties of these man-made fibres will guide...
by Roc et Glace escalade | Jun 12, 2018 | SPORT climbing
Video produced by «Point de chute» You are stuck on a too hard route and want to get back safely on the ground from only one anchor. Here is a way to minimize the impact if that anchor failed. (video in french...
by Roc et Glace escalade | Jun 12, 2018 | Climbing
Producer | Relais Vertical 10th episode from Matos Vertical : Single, Double, Twin… Which model to choose? This tutorial explains the differences between the principal types of ropes used in climbing and alpinism. it explains their advantages and inconveniences...
by Roc et Glace escalade | Jun 12, 2018 | Climbing, Ice climbing, SPORT climbing
Producer | ENSA | École Nationale des Sports de Montagne – Chamonix, FRANCE This tutorial shows the rappel technique on multipitches routes. Overviewing different safety pratices to respect when lowering on rappel, back-ups, belays verifications etc. IMPORTANT...
by Roc et Glace escalade | Jun 12, 2018 | Climbing
Producer | ENSA | École Nationale des Sports de Montagne – Chamonix, FRANCE The first part of this video shows how knots in Dyneema can pull apart easily when loaded. Dyneema is much more slippery than nylon, and traditional knots cannot be relied upon. The...
by Roc et Glace escalade | Jun 12, 2018 | Climbing, Ice climbing, SPORT climbing
Producer | ENSA | École Nationale des Sports de Montagne – Chamonix, FRANCE This tutorial presents different types of lanyards used in mountaineering and demonstrating their advantages and...
by Roc et Glace escalade | Jun 12, 2018 | Ice climbing
Video produced by Black Diamond Ice screws do lose their sharpness when you touch rock or other hard objects. It is then time to rebuild their sharpness. This video from Black Diamond show us a method to keep them sharp. Note that a manual maintenance wont be enough...
